Haad Rin

Haad Rin's Italian — pizza, gnocchi and lasagne, plus a play area for kids

Pasta is the reason to come — gnocchi rosa, bolognese and lasagne with pork — alongside pizza done their own way, not classic and among the better ones on the island. There's a nice play area for kids, and for dessert a Nutella parfait or their version of pavlova; on cocktails, better to stay with the classics.

⚠ On the expensive side, and opinions on the food are divided

Schnitzel and mash in Haad Rin, and mini schnitzels the kids keep asking for

Schnitzel and mash with no twists — that's what you come to eat, with a chopped Israeli salad exactly as it should be beside it. The mini schnitzels go down a treat with children, and anyone who'd rather not leave the house orders delivery.

Haad Rin's veteran Indian — the same flavour for years, everything fresh

This is where the original restaurant sits — one of the island's veteran Indian kitchens, holding the same flavour for more than 15 years, with everything fresh. The menu has it all, vegan alongside meat, and from the regular list: lamb biryani, malai kofta and chicken korma.

ℹ No air conditioning; there's also a branch in Ban Tai

Panang with extra vegetables, and breakfast on the sand in Haad Rin

Morning by the water with syrniki is one way to start here; panang with extra vegetables is the order everything else gets built around. The kitchen holds its level from morning through to evening, and the beach is right in front of the tables.

The only restaurant on the beach — pomelo salad, Burmese salad, falafel

You arrive by boat or on foot along a trail, and that's part of the experience. The menu is wider than you'd expect at a spot like this — fresh spring rolls, shawarma in pita, salads — and the falafel is worth asking for with extra tahini inside, so it stays moist. Before you set out, a short call to check they're open spares you the disappointment.

ℹ Reached by boat — confirm the hours before you go

Breakfast with one of the island's finest views, on the way to Haad Rin

A table facing a stunning view and a simple breakfast — that's the whole story, and it's enough. The coffee does its job, the food doesn't try to be more than it is, and in the morning hours it's a sensible stop on the way to the beach or back from it. Better in a small group — a table for eight won't fit.

ℹ The place is small

Home-made couscous, jachnun and hummus — an Israeli corner in Haad Rin

Beyond the couscous, get to know the jachnun and the hummus — both at home-kitchen level. Vegetarians get falafel, gluten-sensitive diners can order with confidence, and there are doughnuts and black coffee to take away.

A perfect Haad Rin beach for long hours by the sea — and salmon the best thing on the menu

A few indulgent hours by the sea is what you come here for, and the beach is up to the job. Plan the meal as a single stop: if you're ordering, the salmon is a pleasant surprise; the rest of the menu is less consistent, and portions are small for the price.

⚠ The food is middling, the portions small and the price high

A breakfast buffet in Haad Rin — pretty and tasty even without it

The morning buffet is the story: 400 baht a head, every day until 11am, so aim to arrive early. And missing it does not mean going hungry — it is pretty here and the food is good outside buffet hours too.

ℹ Buffet until 11am only